Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
